Shipbucket

More modern yes, but they look the same, minus a few wires.

So, here is the finished 1923 USS Colorado for your viewing pleasure:

Very nice work!

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MS State Guard - 08 March 2014 - 28 January 2023

The Official IJN Ships & Planes List

#FJB

Indeed, very nice work.

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Hood's Worklist
English Electric Canberra FD
Interwar RN Capital Ships
Super-Darings
Never-Were British Aircraft

Here is the Colorado as she appeared on the closing stages of 1924 and most of 1925. She has a catapult and a small pole crane on the fantail. The riggin that goes there has been removed. She has an additional 4x3 inch AA guns. As a consequence of the extra AA guns, the fore boats have been removed. The 5 inch casemates have recieved a canvas covering to protect the guns from the elements. In late 1925 or 1926, she will recieve an extra catapult on turret Y.

Lovely job Karle! What type is the seaplane?

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Projects:
Zealandia AU
John Company AU
References and feedback is always welcome!

Karl94, you should try out different methods of shading you'r funnels and main gun barbettes. and at the same time try to use different light and or dark grey shading, to try solve the problem with making round area look flat. the best way is to experiment a bit.

for example me I like to add an light grey line tree to six pixler behind the first light grey shading, to give it a bit more round feeling.

This is the standard way of shading it. Why break with tradition? Trojan, the seaplane is a Vought O2U Corsair.

standard and standard, no one is using it, except newcomers. But you might solve the shading problem with toning it down a bit. but you are correct somewhat, but if you posted this drawing for 1-2 years ago, no one would complain, but today I will.

you also have to improve you shading under overhang.

one pixel: dark grey: small over hang
one pixel: darker grey: medium overhang
one pixel: darker grey. two pixel hull color grey: large overhang, superstructure cut out. etc.





The rule in shipbucket is to do it simple. that basically means yous as few different colors as possible. that is: light grey, superstructure grey, hull grey, hull shading grey, dark grey (angled breaks), darker grey (slightly more angled break), Under water red, Under water dark red shading nr. 1, Under water very dark red shading color for marking angled break or step angle.

The shipbucket rule of coloring have been modified, but the main side haven't been able to keep up on this. But you have probably seen how I, ace... and a couple of others on this forum (we like to call use the noobs!, or for better description, the masters of drawings!). The old style shipbucket style shading rule is nice to learn in the star when you need to learn on how to use details and so on, after that you can start to use a little more advance shading, so long it's inside the rule of not using to many colors!


When it come to detail vise and how you draw these ships and are not trying to get the level of detail to the maximum, the drawing would always be on an standard level drawing. the best artis in this forum that you weeks on studying pictures just to get bridge area correct do also post drawings that have more life in them.

you can either post and plain standard drawing
or
and drawing that looks like it's an photograph:

he use sharp light shading, but not in big collum, just an small line here and there. he is also following the rule but not literally.:


different underwater shading, also notice the difference between light grey, standard grey and hull grey is very little here. he is also following the rule but not literally.:


and one of ace... drawing's, notice how simple he hold the shading, it's no large different's in all colors and shading, but he still mange to give it life. he is also following the rule but not literally:


I could post many more...

Very nice job on 1924 Colorado! Can't wait for more!

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MS State Guard - 08 March 2014 - 28 January 2023

The Official IJN Ships & Planes List

#FJB