Shipbucket

there are 3 ways:
- crop your reference image to the required length and scale the image
- measure the desired part on the reference drawing and the width of the reference drawing. do a cross product with the length you want that part to be on the shipbucket drawing. the one unknown factor in this calculation would be the width of the image, so when you do the cross product of them you get the size you have to redraw your reference to.
- measure everything on your reference and compare it with your reference size (for example waterline length or any other known size) and thus scale everything on your drawin correctly.

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Drawings are credited with J.Scholtens
I ask of you to prove me wrong. Not say I am wrong, but prove it, because then I will have learned something new.
Shipbucket Wiki admin

Thanks, I'll test each one and see which is best.

Anyway; small update with this destroyer, just getting the parts like the bridge on and and making sure
the scale is right.

Might be worth checking the length of the drawing. From what I measure you are 3 pixels out. Just pick 3 places equidistant on the hull and add a pixel in. This might seem picky but a lump of iron is an exact size and we do have the capability to make our drawings as exact as possible. The scaling details are always one of the bugbears of scale drawing. In my last post I gave you the information on how to get the scale, now you have the information on how to make the resulting drawing exact.

Still having fun?

Who wouldn't find this fun?

Shame about being just 3 pixels out but I guess it was going happen some time.
Sorry, my minds decided to go on leave for a bit, where exactly did I go wrong...?

You did not go wrong anywhere. When scaling the drawing the calculation may say 57% but that percentage when applied to the drawing may give a small variance plus or minus. Easiest way is once you have scaled the drawing, re-measure it to see how close the scaling program got to being correct, then add or subtract pixels to get it exact.

Must remember that with the other designs. I'll make sure to double check the legth after
resizing it.

Now, what would be the next step...?

In the Parts sheet thread are some very useful German sheets with everything you need. Guns, Radar, boats, all the miscellaneous bits to finish the detailing.

Welcome to the Shipucket forum Odin.
I have seen your WIP (Work In Progress), and it seems that your destroyer is down by the head, that is to say, that her bows are deeper in the water than the stern. That can be clearly seen from the black waterline line which you have drawn stepped. A water line is supposed to be a straight line as possible on most ships. The reason you have stepped yours may result from the original's not being aligned as it should be.
You can see from Heuhen's drawing he posted on the previous page that his destroyer has a straight water line.

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Thank you Kim for the crest

"Never fear to try on something new. Remember that the Titanic was built by professionals, and the Ark by an amateur"

Thanks for that, it is true that the line's always do get blurred when resizing so it is
difficult to trace accurately. I'll fix it right away.

Fastest solution to avoid this is to add whitespace to the side of your reference image. For example, if, on the reference image, you have a ship that is 1243 pixels long, you would want to make the total image an integer multiple of that - either 2486 or 3729 pixels long. Once you have that, you can scale the entire image to the correct size, while not getting the minor error that you sometimes get.

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