Basically (IMO in not an expert, I will add a few links at the bottom) you have a Belt and a Deck, so its really simple the belt stops short range flat stuff and the deck stops long range or bombs falling from the top. But it gets more complicated
.(I will use acelanceloet nice pics,
NOTE Iowa has IMO part of the turret barbet/belt shown on the picture, the 17' thick black wedge so forget that)
1) You basically have 2 styles of ships protection layout in WW2 most 30s ships USN/RN/IJN are AON (with simple single belt and deck), Germans are not with multi layers as are most of the old WW1 ships.
- You also need to decide what balance of protection you will do I how important are guns v engines or the bridge etc and decide how to use your limited amount of tonnage to protect you the best.(and it depends if you think you might have to run away or not or what range you will fight, short in bad weather in north Atlantic or in nice sunny south pacific ?)
- not you can get very complicated with decapping layers and splinter layers in-front and behind the main layers.
2)
Belts can be outside (Bismark/NC) or inside (Iowa), outside is easier to fix but harder to angle.
- Why angle ? well as you angle the shell has to go though a greater thickness of belt and is more likely to deflect and fail. (this worked better as the shell starts falling from higher angles at longer range, ie 10deg inst very useful, but 10 deg and shell falling at 20 deg = 30 deg and starts to really hurt performance, think cos/sin maths
)
- Other things you need to think about is it all one thickness ? or does it get thinner at top and bottom ? Hopefully the bottom will always be covered with water so its OK to make it a bit thinner (NC) (to save weight, but its hard/expensive so may not be worth it) or you could have different thickness's joined (but that opens problems with linking them and Yamato had a week join of the 12-6 part).
- That bring us on to depth it has to be deeper the larger the shell you are fighting as bigger shells travel better underwater (squared/cubed so a lot better) this lead to lots of old WW1 belt being to shallow to stop WW2 shells (15/16/18') Ideally you would have something like Yamato with thin belt going down to the bottom.
- You also have to decide how high your belt goes up, again higher is better (but weights more) as it protects more of you ship and therefore traps more buoyancy per length you have protected.
3)
Deck so you have is it one layer ? is it flat ? how high is it ? is it one thickness (over mags and machinery ?) etc..
- One layer works better as its stronger than 2 layers the same thickness (and the first layer will turn a shell toward the second so its even seeker).(so Bismarck 2+ and 3+ doesn't add up to 5+)
- flat decks are stronger v shells coming in at 45 deg angle (not v bombs) (note Yamato 7 and 9 deck parts)
-High is good as it stops flooding and bombs and protects more space in your ship (but bad for weight so do you have a low thick or high thin deck
?)
4) Underwater probably the most important part as it turned out but the bit least prioritized. nobody did sufficient testing pre war its hideously expensive and most systems had flaws waiting to be found or not.
Well hope that helps I'm sure it could be better explained go have a look at.
http://www.navweaps.com/ especially search the forum (with google) its has tons
http://www.combinedfleet.com/baddest.htm
+ lots of others
Note that you don't have to agree with them (well you have to pick a side Iowa v Bismark v Yamato and then argue it for ever
) some of the best battleships in WW2 where actually WW1 rebuilds just because they where ready from the start. (best usefulness of Warspite v Iowa anybody ?)
And that brings me back to the fact that nations built what they could, not necessary what they wanted to, size limits, number of docks, dates, money, treaty, limits all played a big part to limit them.
IMO Its effectively imposable to build a WW2 battleship perfectly you just have to pick the flaws you think you can live with.
JSB
Actually didn't really answer you q did I
.
Well, 1) how do each different work? 2) What was the idea behind them? 3) What kind of material was used in what part for what reason?
1 - they try to stop shells getting to places you don't want fast moving hot bits of metal and explosive
(hopeful covered above)
2 -
B, short range (low trajectory shells) in bad weather and to protect the ability to run away engines (v turrets, saving the ability to stand and fight) as you will be outnumbered raiding North Atlantic.
R + NC, longer ranges (better weather) so steeper shells hitting = more deck v belt. (note I'm ignoring Rs wider and has sloping bits)
I, the above but with deeper stuff as we have now done test and are worried about diving shells (and inside belt)
Y+ M, Limit what limit
the same as R + NC but with much more tonnage to play with.
(you should look/goggle for KVG and WW1 ship to compare for different types as these are all quite similar basically Germany v USN/IJN)
3 - they used steel, 3 is types, Face Hardened armor, None Hardened (Homogeneous) armor and other ship construction steel (of different grades in each county)
FHA - used for belt etc its the best at stopping stuff (and breaks it up as it tries to penetrate).
Homogeneous - less good but flexes so better when hit at high angles such as deck (45 deg+ hits).(it will deflect the shell away from the ship without tearing a hole)
Other - depending on the county they all had different types of steels they used (all had good and bad points)
USN had lots of money so used STS (effectively None hardened armor) for lots of other parts to save weight.
Germany used high quality welding steel that was used everywhere post war (but its not cheap)
RN (and IJN who got it in 20s) used D steel cheap (don't use expensive alloys) and strong but hard to weld (at lest first versions).
other ? not sure probably got worse as you get into smaller poorer navy's.