OK,
A few more tweaks. A sample bow without the dandy funk, It's viable and in scatted historic images over the life of the tug, and definitely much cleaner. Even the lower line comes and goes, can also be pretty much
any light color...by 1914 there were films with predictable broad light wavelength sensitivities.
Sorry...I have to deal with color interp for 1800's era railroad stuff and that's a nightmare. Imagine 2 images of the same car, different types of film or plate chemistry. One car comes out dark, the other light. Historians get to bicker over color for the next 4 generations as a result. I love it when we get a actual paint chips or entire paint x-sections and get to shove it in people's faces.
I'm going to get my butt chewed for "graded shading" on the lower hull. In my defense, this was done in MS Paint. It just doesn't have the extreme steps in color that's typical of accepted drawings in the Real Ships section. It is composed of hull color and two somewhat darker shades created in the "Edit Colors" pull down tab. IF I absolutely have to, I can change it.
Could somebody please post a link to
THE STANDARD that spells out under hull shading...please?
Novice: I had another go at outlining the paddle wheel. I can't bring myself to go with the thick version as it wrecks the whole effect, it's horribly out of scale, etc. Apologies. Please keep nit picking my work.
There's now some davits behind the paddle wheel housings. May or may not add a small boat...but will try. I suspect it'll hide too much work.
Maybe I should try a big 20th Century ship with big structures. These little boats don't provide much leeway to move around in. Tiny details are easy to turn into mud.
Craig